The Beauty of Alpine Lakes Wilderness

I recently made the hike to Kendall Katwalk in Alpine Lakes Wilderness–a spectacular day trip into one of the most beautiful wilderness areas in the Pacific Northwest. From glacier-carved mountain peaks, to high-elevation wildflowers, to old-growth mountain hemlock forests, to the lakes from which the wilderness gets its name, this protected area showcases so many of the things that make the larger North Cascades ecosystem special.

Monk’s hood along the trail

To reach Kendall Katwalk, follow the Pacific Crest Trail from just off I-90 up a series of switchbacks that ascend through old conifer forests. I was there in the latter half of July, and flowers including monk’s hood, larkspurs, and tiger lilies were still blooming. Eventually, the trail broke out of the trees into a more open alpine ecosystem. The snowy peak of Tahoma (Mount Rainier) was visible in the distance, as were mile after mile of smaller, forested mountain peaks.

As the trail climbs higher, it just keeps getting more spectacular as it passes through boulder fields where clumps of mountain heather, phlox, and paintbrush flowers grow, and Parnassian butterflies alight to feed on the blooms. At times the trail skirts steep drop-offs, and you’ll definitely want to watch your footing. Up here, occasional clumps of subalpine fir mostly replace the mountain hemlocks and Pacific silver fir that dominate the forest along the first, lower part of the trail. As for wildlife, I spotted this golden-mantled ground squirrel feeding on a seed:

Golden-mantled ground squirrel

The “katwalk” itself is a section of the trail that’s chiseled into a rocky cliff face, and leads to an overlook with a magnificent view of the U-shaped valley below. Like so many geologic features of the North Cascades, this valley would have been carved out by massive glaciers during the last Ice Age. These are some of the wildest lands in the contiguous United States, inhabited by animals like black bears, cougars, Pacific fishers, and wolverines–though you’re unlikely to see any of these species along the relatively busy trail.

The view from Kendall Katwalk

Although Alpine Lakes Wilderness is protected from logging, mining, and other forms of development, that doesn’t make it safe from the effects of climate change that pose serious challenges across mountain ecosystems. The beauty of this place should be a reminder of what’s at stake in the climate fight, and an inspiration to all of us working for a more sustainable future where people and wild landscapes can co-exist.

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